Gear Tips

Headlamps 101, Know you light source

Buy:

Light output; Measured in lumens, this is the total amount of light the lamp emits (one lumen equals the light of one candle from one foot away). For basic camping and on-trail hiking, a device with 24 lumens is plenty. On trickier terrain—scrambles, off-trail routes, and canyons—invest in a lamp with 55 lumens. Cyclists and cavers might require 100-plus-lumen lamps—some floodlight models even deliver a whopping 350. But beware: Lumens reveal nothing about the beam’s quality, or how well it illuminates a distant object. If the lamp has poor optics, for example, it might diffuse the light in many directions, rather than in a useful, focused beam, so consider beam distance as well. 
Beam distance This is the max distance the lamp usefully illuminates something (see Picture). Your lamp should shine 25 meters for basic trail hiking and 45-plus meters for climbing, orienteering, running, etc. 
Modes Here’s a rundown of useful settings to look for: 
High/low power All but the most basic lamps let you choose between brightest (sucks the most juice) and economy mode (dimmer, but saves power). Some also offer a medium setting. 
Focused or wide-angle beam Typically, narrow beams travel farther than wide-angle ones, which disperse light into a broader area. Some headlamps convert between the two, either by using a diffuser lens to change the beam angle or by activating peripheral LEDs. 
Extra-strength pulses Some models let you amp light output by 50% for up to 20 seconds, gulping power but giving you a glimpse far ahead. 
Strobe Flashing lights signal rescuers. 
Color LEDs These preserve night vision—the eyes’ adjustment to low light. Full adaption takes 30 minutes, and bright light destroys it. Avoid lamps with a tinted screen you pull over white LEDs; this dulls the light. 
Light source Unless you’re a caver, opt for LEDs over halogen bulbs. They’re not as bright, but they last much longer and won’t break. 
Batteries Some lamps use coin-cell or camera batteries; these cut weight but not enough to justify hunting for these rarer types. For most uses, stick with regular alkaline or rechargeables. In cold weather, use lithium ion batteries, which work well down to –20°F or more. Alkaline batteries get sluggish in the cold, which slows the chemical reaction, and lose power 60% faster at 0°F than at 68°F. 
Power usage Decide if you want a lamp with regulated or unregulated power. The former keeps the light output constant until the battery can’t support it; then output plummets to emergency light (some have low-battery indicators). Unregulated lamps slowly dim as the batteries lose juice, lowering beam distance but warning you of waning power. 

USE
Conserve power. When working around camp, dim the light. 
Hang your lamp in the tent to make a lantern. 
Wear it like a necklace when conversing. Result: useful glow, no blinding. 
Dry off your lamp. Most headlamps are water-resistant and can withstand rain, snow, and brief submersion. But swimming with your torch will ruin it, unless you have a totally waterproof model. If fresh water gets inside the casing, immediately take out the batteries and dry the contacts and the rest of the lamp. For accidental ocean dunkings, quickly rinse the whole thing (including the battery compartment) with fresh water, then dry it. And don’t store a wet lamp; it will corrode. 
Protect it from dust. Headlamps can withstand a serious beating; even if you scratch the lens, it won’t affect the way the light shines. But if fine particles penetrate the casing, they can interfere with the contacts, damaging performance. In dusty areas, stow it in a bag. 
Be cold savvy. In frigid temps, stow the entire lamp in an inner pocket when it’s not in use, to keep the batteries warm and functional. 
To store, remove batteries. Lamps draw a little power even when off. 

FIX 
Battery contacts If jostled roughly, the contacts can bend and won’t connect with the battery. Use a knife tip to bend them back into place. 
Cleaning Wipe off any corrosion with an emery cloth. If it’s really bad, use your knife or a flathead screwdriver to scrape it away. 
Dead LEDs They’re rated to 100,000 hours (11 years), so manufacturers say that when they burn out, it’s time to buy a new headlamp. 

WATER TREATMENTS WORKING?

Q.} How can I be sure my water treatment equipment is doing it job. Is there a way to test this?

A.} It’s a bit of a leap of faith. Unless you pay a lab to analyze the output of your filter (which is big bucks) the only way you know is to wait and see. If you don’t get sick, a: then the water was safe to begin with or b: the water was unsafe and your treatment method did its job.

All of the filters and purifiers on the market today have gone through extensive lab testing and EPA certification (paid for by the company, of course) to ensure that it’s removing or immobilizing the cooties it claims to.

The only 100% foolproof method of sterilization is boiling, but that’s not always practical for backpackers due to the amount of fuel it requires, not to mention the time and energy it takes to boil all your water.

People all have different levels of comfort when it comes to water treatment. I know some people who are mighty cavalier about the water they glug without any treatment at all. I know others who are downright paranoid. I subscribe to an in-between philosophy. If I’m hiking anywhere there’s livestock around, I’m purifying my water, either with a UV treatment, a filter and/or chemicals.

If I’m high in the mountains and the water’s is melting right off a peak, I’m less concerned and often just add chemicals (like Potable Aqua or Aquamira.) Sometimes I just drink the water straight

Bottom line: assess the level of risk and do what you’re most comfortable with.

Water Reservoir Care:

Be it a Camelbak or other hydration system reservoir they will all require regular maintenance to keep the funk away. Camelbak has put together a cleaning kit that comes with two brushes, a drying hanger and two non-chlorine-cleansing tablets.

For Weekly Cleaning:
1. Use reservoir and tube brush with a mild soap to clean interior of components.
2. Rinse all components.
3. Either refill or store reservoir on drier to air out.

For a Deep Cleaning:
1. Fill reservoir with 1 liter of water and 1 cleaning tablet.
2. Shake until cleaning tablet dissolves and let stand for 5 minutes.
3. Empty reservoir, Use reservoir and tube brush with a mild soap to clean interior of components. And rinse with water.
4. Either refill or store reservoir on drier to air out.

Note: Camelbak reservoirs are BPA Free.

Ducts Tape:

When I was taking my Canoe Instructors Course, our instructor related a tale from a class he taught in Germany . During the first aid portion of the course he was talking about what was needed in a good first aid kit, when several hands went up. One of the paddlers stated with agreement from several others that you don't need no stinking first aid kit; use ducts tape. If you have cut, ducts tape it and keep on paddling. A broken finger, ducts tape it to another finger and keep on paddling. How about cracked or broken ribs, ducts tape and keep on paddling. Shaking his head he had to agree that if you eliminated the pain factor from its removal, you could use ducts tape for a replacement first aid kit.

Although I don't recommend using duct tape for a first aid kit, there are several uses for it in the outdoors to always carry some. During hiking or backpacking treks I roll a length of it around a water bottle. During a paddling trip I have a small roll in my dry bag. If I get a tear in my rain gear, pack or tent it makes a good quick fix. During paddling trips I've fixed PFD tears, leaks in floatation bags and dry bags. Oh, I even once cut it into butterfly stitches to close a cut on my hand and yes I kept on paddling.